Exploring the more obscure routes is part of the fun of park climbing.ĥ.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 5 pitchesĥ.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 8 pitchesĥ.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 8 pitchesĥ.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitchesĥ.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitchesĥ.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 9 pitchesĥ.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitchesĥ.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitchesĥ.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitchesĥ. There are tons of other routes in the park, some suck, others are hidden gems. I have yet to venture into 5.11 and 5.12 range in the park, but two routes come to mind as totally classic, these are D7 on the Diamond (11c) and Birds of Fire on Chiefshead (11a). Pervertical Sanctuary (10+) is also apparently totally classic. He also appeared in the Gobots film and made a. Turbo was among the main trio of heroes of the cartoon series, and appeared in every episode alongside Leader-1 and Scooter. The character transformed into a supercar. The Yellow Wall on the Diamond is 10c if done with the Forrest Finish variation, and is possibly the most spectacular route I have ever done. Turbo, also known as RacerMan, is a fictional character in the Gobots toyline, and the subsequent Challenge of the Gobots cartoon. Chasm View Wall offers some spicy routes, and Spearhead has a couple classic 10s ( The Barb and Age Axe?) with The Barb having a reputation as an "easy" 10. In the 5.10 range you can't beat the Casual Route on Long's (10a), but there are other stellar 10s in the park. In the 5.9 range, Syke's Sickle (9+++, (7s)), the steep Hesse-Ferguson on Hallett (5.9 with low dihedral variation is in my opinion the best route on Hallett), and the Direct South Ridge of Notchtop (9) all offer spectacular and incomparable climbing. Climbing in the park really starts to open up in the 5.9 and 5.10 range. A step up from these routes would include the South Face of the Petit Grepon (5.8, with a time-consuming descent), the magnificent Culp-Bossier on Hallett (5.8+, runout 5.7). Some good introductory routes would include the North Ridge of Spearhead (5.6), the Northeast Ridge on Sharkstooth (5.6), or even the East Gully on Sharkstooth (5.4 and NOT a chosspile, a really good climb). One should have a good deal experience on multi-pitch climbs, and one should feel in shape enough to hike five miles uphill in the dark and then climb a thousand-foot face.Īll this said, the climbs are magnificent and unforgettable. A first-time climber in the park should feel competent at leading trad at the very least a grade harder probably two or three than the climb they wish to tackle. all of which are magnified in this alpine setting. These hazards include loose rock, bad weather, bad pro, etc. In short, you need to be a competent climber to safely enjoy this area.Ĭlimbing in the park is a complex endeavor that requires being able to analyze many different objective hazards, all while sucking air at 12-14000 feet. The routes here are long, (grade III to V), committing, usually have some sections of loose rock, require a lengthy hike in, require some knowledge of snow travel, and are absolutely spectacular. Consequentially it has some of the most beautiful climbing in the U.S. Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) needs little introduction as one of the most beautiful national parks in the U.S.
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